La Vie a la Mode

Vivienne Westwood Red Label RTW LDN SS12

It was all big, big hair and sharp tailoring at Vivienne Westwood's Red Label this season. With only a few signature tartan appearances, the collection seemed to show a demure restraint. This design restraint seemed to be echoed in her power suits, subtle colors and if you could ignore the feral hair, the overall power-be-to-the-board-women look suited Westwood well. Good collection. 

Erdem RTW LDN SS12

It was light, it was pretty and very, very floral! In particular I liked the last 6 pieces of this very proper, almost English spring collection from Erdem. Althought the prints seemed to have a Japanese feel to them, the overall mood was English boater hats, starched collars and oh-so-white gloves. The use of Chantilly lace was also absolutely beautiful. Good collection.

House of Holland RTW LDN SS12

Always walking the fine line of bad taste, Holland strikes again. This season saw him focusing on colors playing off of each other as well as the idea of "haute couture" fishnet vests and mismatched plaid. While it worked for some it didn't strike my fancy, especially with all the slinky python skin tight numbers not to mention the whole skin head look of bleached jeans, suspenders and uniform button up shirt. Glamorizing at its best I suppose! Fair collection.

Emilia Wickstead RTW LDN SS12

Seductively sweet freshman debut from Emilia Wickstead. Loved the colors, the cute Parisian prints, the knife pleats and the right on tread penchant for billowy tops, small waisted dresses and breezy palazzo pants. Evoked a sense of long summer days holidaying on the Continent. Strong debut. 

Basso & Brooke RTW LDN SS12

Don't let the simple silhouette fool you. This duo knows how to create an intricate pattern of colors, print and trompe l'oeil. My only concern is that beyond this the collection seemed a little vacant, like there was an ingredient missing, perhaps a focusing lens? Good collection.

Marc Jacobs RTW NYC SS12

Yet another designer to visit the roaring 20's and put his stamp on it, Jacobs produced a tight, scintillating plastic-cum-dropped waist utopia rendered in 1960's fabrics and a whole lot of young tongue-in-cheek sassiness. Good collection.

 

Carolina Herrera RW NYC SS12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
It seems to me that Herrera vacillates between prim lady like glamor to modern, slim almost pared down looks for her collections. Sometimes its all about the shilhoutte and at other times more about how much print, sumptuous fabric or embellishment she can possibly get away with. This season she was clearly back to the silhouette of yore somewhere roughly between the dropwaists of the 20's to the mod lines and color blocking of the 70's. And it worked even when developing her sportswear. Gorgeous collection.

Reem Acra RTW NYC SS12

After taking a leave of absence last season, Reem Acra is back and in full force. Of course there were her gorgeous, signature long, embellished party gowns but, to the joy of many, her day wear collection was strong and very wearable. I particularly liked the tulle illusion as well as the light chiffons, continuing this seasons trend of feminine dressing in the 40's and 50's. Strong collection.

 

Badgley Mischka RTW NYC SS12

 

Soft, retro and embellished. Just how I like it! And lets not forget the bows. I was in lady like heaven with this collection. Albeit it had a few moments of distraction like the irredescent 1980's frocks but over all it was a structured and sharp collection from a duo know for their swish effect. Good collection.

Jenny Packham RTW NYC SS12

Pure bliss from Jenny Packham this season and it's making me want to buy it all for my honeymoon! The light, sorbet colors and beading was sumptuous without being over the top while the silhouettes remained signature Packham with a youth full injection of sauciness. Gorgeous collection.