La Vie a la Mode

Giles RTW LDN SS12

While the look and feel might have been up to the minute modern, the tailoring and cutting of each piece was all retro loveliness. Here Giles rendered silhouttes from the 40's, 50's and 70's in flashy silver jaquard, silks, laser cut leathers, feathers, sequins, with a huge empasis on draping and tailoring, especially within the bigger numbers. His swan print was whimsical and poetic as the symbolic swan is thought to mean love, unity, dreams and transformation. Particularly loved the gorgeous red dresses. Strong collection. 

Emilia Wickstead RTW LDN SS12

Seductively sweet freshman debut from Emilia Wickstead. Loved the colors, the cute Parisian prints, the knife pleats and the right on tread penchant for billowy tops, small waisted dresses and breezy palazzo pants. Evoked a sense of long summer days holidaying on the Continent. Strong debut. 

Basso & Brooke RTW LDN SS12

Don't let the simple silhouette fool you. This duo knows how to create an intricate pattern of colors, print and trompe l'oeil. My only concern is that beyond this the collection seemed a little vacant, like there was an ingredient missing, perhaps a focusing lens? Good collection.

Mary Katrantzou RTW FW 2011 LFW *I heart this designer*

Katrantzou is probably the only designer I know to literally interpret an inspiration without actually, physically using the object or idea as a clothing item. Thats how close to believable her designs can actually get! Of course the shape and layering of these garments, representing the Chinese floral vase, came handily into play. However, when interpreting her next inspirations, the idea of objects that Duchess of Windsor and Babe Paley would have owned, like jewels for example, Katrantzou used less of a strict form that her architectural pieces have been known for and more flowing prettiness but as always complete with startling print. Very strong collection.

Temperley London RTW FW 2011 LFW *I heart this designer*

Oh my starry eyes! It was a Spanish fiesta of silk, lace and STARS! Yes, I have a slight obsession with those sparkly points of lights but this was also a fabulous collection that demonstrated Temperley's current push towards evening wear while leaving her more casual wear for her diffusion line Alice. Strong collection.

Oscar de la Renta RTW FW 2011 NYC *I heart this designer*

Unlike his spring collection, fall saw Oscar de la Renta bring out the big guns of lady like glamor and charm. Clearly no expense was spared and the effect was breathtaking; not only in scope of the collection but to the extent with which each piece was made. While I enjoyed his foray into the ethnic vibe (which produced some stunning dresses,) his green series wasn't the best and the fisherman cum newsboy caps were a little out of place for a name so strongly associated with old world glamor. Not to mention the bizarre, boxy blue jacket with black satin with peacock embroidered skirt. The rest however was pure, luxurious heaven. Strong collection.

Jen Kao RTW FW 2011 NYC *I heart this designer*

Its seems that sporty staid NYC got a flu shot this season of psychedelic London love with Jen Kato's FW 2011 collection. Fun and unique collection with strong promise on behalf of Kao to vibe up NYC. Solid collection.

Rodarte RTW FW 2011 NYC *I heart this designer*

An incredibly beautiful collection themed around the Great American Plains and all of its great, myriad associations like Wizard of Oz or the pioneers or Days of Heaven. The long, silky dresses with sheaths of wheat printed on them, the long boucle wool coats with single button waists and the moccasin inspired shoes were all direct references while the geometric patterns and thick sweaters were more modern day Wisconsin-glam then 1800's settler. Another variation on this prairie inspiration is the way the colors (honey, oat, cream, robin blue and tawny) were interpreted in strong, rough fabrics like mohair and rough, single carding wools. Everything was Laura Ingalls chic and I simply fell in major love. Strong collection.

Farah Angsana RTW FW 2011 NYC *I heart this designer*

Although she didn't do well with this season's reviews, I am going to give her my coveted *I heart this designer* prize because I love these cute, embellished, fanny slapping numbers for all their worth. Barbie eat your heart out! Fair collection.

Ones to watch for AW 2011: Zuhair Murad

Some might only see the saccharine sweetness of these dresses but I for one will be looking out to see what this season coming up will be for this relative new comer to the fashion scene. Murad is insanely popular in his native Beirut, some might even say more popular that the all consuming Saab. This was his FW 2011 Couture collection.