Tour de force duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos sparkled this season in a surf wear inspired collection rendered in creative, mesmerizing prints. I loved the billowing cotton skirts, trendy surfer tops and every piece decorated with rhinestones and crystals. The dense tropical jungle of Indonesia was another one of their inspirational sparks which not only featured in their print but also as delicate PVC leaves. Strong collection.
While the look and feel might have been up to the minute modern, the tailoring and cutting of each piece was all retro loveliness. Here Giles rendered silhouttes from the 40's, 50's and 70's in flashy silver jaquard, silks, laser cut leathers, feathers, sequins, with a huge empasis on draping and tailoring, especially within the bigger numbers. His swan print was whimsical and poetic as the symbolic swan is thought to mean love, unity, dreams and transformation. Particularly loved the gorgeous red dresses. Strong collection.
It was all silk scarf heaven at Clements Ribeiro this season. Inspiration came from the duo's large collection of scarves, as well as prints inspired by their home botanicals which were worked into simple, flattering shapes for summer. The collection's construction was also carefully investigated and the outcome being a pleasant get up, get dressed and go feel to it. However, the duo's experiment into black and white graphics left much to be desired. Good collection.
Having been inspired by tribal tattoos, Koma presented a solid, modern collection for spring 2012. The look was very body conscious, something that has been repeated a lot these past spring/summer seasons yet Koma held his ground with his devore prints, slashes,mirror embellishments, leather and reflective appliques. Good collection.
It was all big, big hair and sharp tailoring at Vivienne Westwood's Red Label this season. With only a few signature tartan appearances, the collection seemed to show a demure restraint. This design restraint seemed to be echoed in her power suits, subtle colors and if you could ignore the feral hair, the overall power-be-to-the-board-women look suited Westwood well. Good collection.
It was light, it was pretty and very, very floral! In particular I liked the last 6 pieces of this very proper, almost English spring collection from Erdem. Althought the prints seemed to have a Japanese feel to them, the overall mood was English boater hats, starched collars and oh-so-white gloves. The use of Chantilly lace was also absolutely beautiful. Good collection.
Always walking the fine line of bad taste, Holland strikes again. This season saw him focusing on colors playing off of each other as well as the idea of "haute couture" fishnet vests and mismatched plaid. While it worked for some it didn't strike my fancy, especially with all the slinky python skin tight numbers not to mention the whole skin head look of bleached jeans, suspenders and uniform button up shirt. Glamorizing at its best I suppose! Fair collection.